There have been a number of other restaurant incarnations at this location... however, judging by the quality of the cuisine and the convivial crowds that gather at both lunch and dinner, Creed's is destined for a long and illustrious run.

But before settling in at table, be sure to pay a call at the comfortable and - even on normally quiet weeknights - bustling bar. Cosmo martinis are very much in evidence here, along with a smattering of foreign and domestic brews, and some very nice wine selections by the glass.

You may start things off with the raw bar, should you be so inclined. Offerings vary daily and are embellished with a spicy red pepper-lemon mignonette. Other gifts from the sea include a sweet and succulent jumbo lump crabmeat cocktail simply adorned with fresh lemon juice and ground black pepper and a plump array of dirty blond ale-steamed mussels in the company of house-smoked andouille sausage, plum tomatoes, julienne leeks, and fresh herbs.

There are also a number of interesting salads from which to choose, and all make excellent preludes to your meal. The Caesar is a classic, boasting pristine leaves of romaine lettuce, Locatelli cheese, and just a subtle hint of anchovy in the dressing. The mixed field greens are awash with slices of Anjou pear & Vidalia onion and generous chunks of Roquefort cheese tossed with a very nice raspberry-red wine vinaigrette. Also highly recommended is the arugula salad sporting luscious Camembert Brie cheese croutons, prosciutto crisps, and a subtle yet distinctive strawberry vinaigrette.

Entrees, as the establishment's unabridged moniker suggests, are evenly divided between seafood and steaks... and all acquit themselves with suitable distinction.

From the periodically changing "Chef s Specialties," I would highly recommend the beautifully pan-seared black cod set on a seabed of braised black beluga lentils and finished with a first-rate chive-vermouth beurre blanc. And the pan-seared veal tournedos and scallops accompanied by incredibly delicious melted leek mashed potatoes and wilted spinach are also a winner... ditto the pan-roasted tilapia with an intriguing combo of sage butter and apple wood smoked bacon.

In addition, you may also choose from a variety of charcoal grilled fish or steaks & chops and match them up with a sauce you think fills the bill. A center-cut filet mignon or New York strip steak, for example, might be paired with a brandy peppercorn sauce, zinfandel demi-glace, sauce bearnaise, or Roquefort demi-glace.

And when it comes to matters piscatorial, there are several marriages that appear to have been made in heaven. The medium rare yellowfin tuna finds a perfect partner in an exotic ponzu sauce, while the New Zealand wild king salmon reaps the benefits of a zippy chimichurri.

Creed's also features a tempting dessert menu as well as a top-notch array of ports, cognacs, and other after-dinner libations.

My wife and I have dined here on numerous occasions, and we have yet to suffer disappointment. Highly recommended on all counts.

The Artful Diner April 2004